Janey Jumper Scallop Tutorial

I have been dreaming about creating this version of the Janey Jumper Pattern for a long time. I always have all these ideas, but actually putting my ideas to fabric doesn’t always work out. I’m so glad I finally found the time to create the vision that has been in my head. Today’s tutorial will show you how to create this horizontal scallop overlay on the top of the Janey Jumper. This is also how I create scallops on just about everything I sew, so if you are looking for a basic scallop tutorial…..look no further! The tutorial is assuming that you own the Janey Jumper Sewing Pattern. If you don’t, you can check out the pattern HERE. So let’s get started………

Janey Jumper Scallop Tutorial

You will need to have all the pieces for the Janey Jumper View C (without anything going down the front), so a front exterior, back exterior, lining front and lining back. Then you’ll need to cut an additional two pieces to go on top of the Janey Jumper front. Just use the regular a-line pattern to cut two extra top pieces that extend approximately 2.5″ – 3″ below the armholes (show above). This piece is going to look different depending on what size you are sewing. This will create your horizontal overlay.

Then select a scallop template from the Janey Jumper Pattern that fits nicely across the bottom of the overlay pieces. The smaller sizes (with smaller scallops) are going to work best here, but it’s just trial and error until you find one that fits the width of your pieces. Think about if you want a full scallop at the right and left or a half scallop……that is going to be up to you. Also, if you’d prefer less scallops then you will choose a scallop from one of the larger sizes. This is where you will be getting a tad creative. Whatever you choose, just make sure you center your scallops in the center of the overlay.

Trace the template onto the paper side of store-bought freezer paper as instructed in the pattern. Then place the overlay pieces with their right sides together and iron the freezer paper (the shiny side should be facing the fabric) to the wrong side of one of the overlay pieces. Don’t worry, freezer paper doesn’t leave any residue on your fabric and will peel right off.

You also might want the scallops to be closer to the edge of the overlay. That is totally fine. Just cut off some of the freezer paper to get the scallops closer to the edge. Remember this is just a template, so you can make it your own!

The front and back overlay should be right sides together and then you will sew ON TOP of the lines that you’ve traced onto your freezer paper. Yes, you are sewing through paper. I like to place a few pins to keep the two overlay pieces together. Once you’ve sewn on top of the scallop template, peel off your freezer paper. You might have to tug a bit to get the paper off, but if you’ve used polyester thread, you should be fine because it’s strong enough to hold the stitches in place.

This is what your overlay will look like once you have removed the freezer paper. Notice again, how I simply stitched on top of the scallop template and there was no seam allowance used during the previous step. This is what makes my technique so easy. Trying to sew around curves and scallops AND getting the perfect seam allowance is very tricky. But sewing on top of the scallop markings is super simple.

Now, you need to cut around the scallops. I like to use my pinking shears for around the larger curves and my straight scissors to get down into the dips in the scallops. You need to make sure that you cut almost all the way down to the stitching in the dips of the scallops. If you don’t, your scallops will pucker when you turn them right side out. Also, I suggest adding a bit of fray check when you get really close to the stitching to prevent the fabric from fraying. You can cut out some of the extra fabric in the dips of the scallops as well……this will remove bulk and help them lay flat too.

Then turn your scallops right side out. Press the curves out smoothly. It helps to use the round side of a point turner. I also like to use a hot iron and Best Press spray. Don’t worry if your scallops don’t look perfect at first. Keep smoothing them out and ironing. If you are getting any puckers in the dips of the scallops, turn inside out and clip closer to the stitching and press again until it looks the way you would like for your dress. I had to turn mine twice before I liked the way it looked.

Then lay your scallop overlay on top of the front exterior of the Janey Jumper. Baste stitch the overlay to the front of the dress, leaving the scallops free.

Once you have basted the overlay, sew the buttons in the center of each scallop prior to constructing the Janey Jumper. Again, keep in mind that you will be sewing View C, just the regular, plain Janey Jumper. The only scallop pieces you’ll have will be this overlay.

I added some bright pink piping into the armholes to coordinate with the pink buttons that I selected for the front. If you want to add piping, just baste it in place prior to constructing the armholes, right after you’ve finished sewing around the neck and back opening.

The fabric used here is a newer line from Sarah Jane Studios for Michael Miller called ‘Sommer‘. This line is really gorgeous. I absolutely love the green and bright blue color way. There is also a much softer pastel version of these fabrics, but you know me…….I can’t stay away from color! You do have to be precise when using the large Buffalo Check print. It’s important to cut it straight and line up the pattern at the side seams. I’m not always a stickler for that, but with this large, bold print it’s a must.

For some reason the combination of the grass green, bright blue and pink has kind of a preppy feel to me. I think it would have been really pretty to add some pink trim poking out at the bottom of this dress, but I didn’t think of that until it was too late. So it goes……

I have two Lessons with Lindsay free sewing videos that correspond to this dress. One about finishing the armholes and the other is about how to hem the bottom of the dress. Both of these are kind of unique techniques, so if you haven’t checked out my Lessons with Lindsay series, you can view all the videos HERE. I’ll be in St. Louis at Baby Lock this week filming a video sharing this exact technique. This video will release later this year, so if you are confused in any way, no worries…….I’ll personally be walking you through every step of the way.

I hope you enjoyed this new take on the Janey Jumper! I plan to share more variations of The Cottage Mama Sewing Patterns this year so it will inspire you to get creative with the patterns that you own. If you are interested in checking out the Janey Jumper Pattern, you can find it HERE.

Happy Sewing!